Bethlehem's Holiday Tree Lighting Illuminates for the First Time Since the Start of the Conflict

For two years during the Gaza war, all public celebrations for Christmas were called off in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This place is where the faithful hold Jesus was born.

But, following a recent truce, the holy city decided that now the festivities would make a comeback, as represented by the illumination of its traditional, large holiday tree before the historic Nativity Church.

"It's been two difficult years of silence; no holiday, no jobs, no income," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and the tourist trade was down to zero."

The mayor accepts that the idea of resuming celebrations faced some debate, as suffering continues within Gaza – including for those in its tiny Christian community, many of whom have relatives in Bethlehem.

"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I believed that this was the correct action to do because the Christmas season must never be stopped or cancelled. This is the light of hope for our community."

A Glimmer of Festivity Reappears

Residents – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – pose for selfies before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a small number of foreign tourists.

Brightly coloured lights now adorn city streets with signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.

"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," comments Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.

"This is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey a message to the world of what Christmas truly represents. And now, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will bring a positive message for the entire world."

Economic Prospects and Challenges

The neighbouring towns including Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees in the coming days. Local hotels – which have stood largely empty for two years – are seeing a rise of bookings from Arab citizens of Israel as well as certain international tourists.

One tourist from Russia, Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to the Holy Land. "I think everyone needs to come at least once in their life," she says.

"I hope many visitors will soon come back because it's sad with few tourists. The only thing that is positive is that there are no long lines – one can visit and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in line for hours at least."

Currently, the souvenir stores scattered throughout Bethlehem experience scant trade, and outside the pale walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the 4th century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the Gaza war, it was often crammed with people.

"Bethlehem is a tourist city; without tourism there is no life," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back as in the past: from European nations, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin America and all over. We begin with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."

The Lingering Economic Toll

In the past two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the lethal attacks led by Hamas in southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the conflict, many thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been blocked from entering Israel and its settlements for work.

Meanwhile, public servants have received just a portion of their salaries by the Palestinian Authority (PA) – which governs parts of the West Bank. The PA depends on tax income collected by Israel, which it is currently holding – amounting to 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.

Israel says it is holding these funds due to the fact that the PA makes payments to incarcerated Palestinians that incentivise violence against Israelis. The PA – facing international pressure to enact reforms – says it has recently changed its welfare system.

An Austere Christmas Season

The grim economic outlook implies that for many Palestinian Christians, despite the fact that there are now public events in addition to religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.

At the edge of the square, some patrons are waiting to buy hot balls of falafel from several shops.

"We're preparing for Christmas following one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as a Christian community," says Alaa Salameh, who runs Afteem, a long-established family-run eatery which has seen its income plummet. He says lately many families could not even afford falafel – a cheap, traditional food.

"Christians will try to mark the occasion but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festival or the theatre or whatever, he doesn't have the funds to spend on these celebrations."

Prayers for Peace and Prosperity

Within the grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a resident follows a small Indian tour group, bending down by a silver star that indicates the spot where tradition states that Jesus was born and igniting a candle nearby.

With tensions still high throughout the area, people in Bethlehem say they are praying for tranquility – and hoping for visitors to return to the place which is thought to be Christmas began.

Debra Briggs
Debra Briggs

A passionate photographer and educator with over a decade of experience in capturing life's moments through the lens.