Kimchi, Made in China: How Korea's National Dish Is Being Priced Out Domestically.

The pungent smell of red chilli powder hangs in the air at a production facility in a city near Seoul. Inside, salted cabbage soaks in large metal vats during the first step of a time-honored procedure.

The struggle originates from a widening trade imbalance. South Korea brings in a greater volume of kimchi than it sends abroad, with more affordable Chinese-made products gaining a foothold in the local market.

The Price Disparity

Chinese kimchi is priced for restaurants at around 1,700 won per kilogram. Conversely, domestically produced kimchi average about 3,600 won per kilogram—over twice the price.

From January to October this year, the value of imports stood at $159 million, almost entirely from China, while overseas sales amounted to $137 million.

A Cornerstone of Culture

This fermented dish is a staple of food culture on the peninsula. The term covers far more than the spicy cabbage best known by international diners.

• There are more than 150 documented types, made with daikon, cucumbers, scallions and other vegetables.
• They are seasoned with blends of chilli powder, garlic, ginger and fermented seafood paste.
• The natural fermentation produces health-promoting probiotics, contributing to its reputation as a nutritious food.

Changing Consumption

Traditionally, families prepared large quantities together during the annual kimjang ritual, a tradition designated by UNESCO. Yet, how Koreans consume kimchi are evolving.

Single-person households have increased dramatically since 2000, now representing over 36% of all households. Consequently, a declining number prepare it domestically.

Nowadays, it is more often eaten ready-made or in restaurants, where it is provided complimentary with every meal. Asking payment for such a basic side dish would be inconceivable.

The Producer's Plight

"If you avoid losses and stay afloat, that’s considered lucky," comments a producer. "For many of us over the past decade, we haven’t been able to invest in equipment."

An Emotional Staple

Market forces mean that cost, rather than origin or method, is now the primary consideration.

One factory owner who has run a facility for 29 years canceled plans for expansion years ago as Chinese imports gained ground. "Is it right to use kimchi from abroad when this is a food that embodies our heritage?" he says. "It's deeply saddening."

Additional Challenges

These difficulties are worsened by the changing climate, which is disrupting cabbage farming. Growing in summer has become harder in usual highland growing areas, causing wholesale cabbage prices to sometimes more than double from one year to the next.

Authorities and producers are working on hardier cabbage types and better storage, but industry groups doubt whether such measures can counteract the pressures.

Approximately three-quarters of South Korea’s kimchi manufacturers are micro-businesses with a handful of employees, using labour-intensive methods that struggle to compete with industrial-scale production in China.

Seeking Solutions

The industry is attempting to adapt, albeit with limited tools.

• A voucher scheme offers restaurants a subsidy to return to using Korean-made kimchi.
• There are calls for stricter checks of declared import prices for kimchi.
• Government measures include voluntary labelling schemes for restaurants, farm aid for cabbage growers, and research to extend kimchi’s shelf life for export.

A Matter of Taste

Ultimately, many believe that quality remains the local industry's best asset.

"Korean kimchi has a unique taste," states an association head. "It is impossible to copy."